Yunnan, Kingdom of Fungi

Yunnan, known as the “Kingdom of Fungi,” has a long history of mushroom consumption among its locals, forming a distinctive culinary and cultural tradition. Thanks to its subtropical and tropical monsoon climate, Yunnan features complex topography, diverse forests, and soil types, creating a warm and humid environment ideal for fungal growth. These favorable natural conditions make Yunnan one of the richest regions for wild edible mushroom resources in China and even the world. Approximately 70% of China’s commercially harvested wild edible mushrooms originate from Yunnan.

Historical Origins of Yunnan's Mushroom Culture

Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, numerous historical texts have documented the consumption of wild mushrooms. Regions like Wuding in central Yunnan, Dali in western Yunnan, Dehong, Baoshan, Xishuangbanna in southwestern Yunnan, and Honghe in southern Yunnan were recorded in local chronicles as being rich in mushroom production. Ming and Qing scholars also described the customs of mushroom harvesting and consumption in Yunnan. The historical texts mentioned fungi in categories. Both local chronicles and scholars' notes recorded the prevalence of mushrooms in many areas of Yunnan, listing varieties such as Russula Virescens (青头菌), Morchella esculenta (羊肝菌), Jizong (鸡枞菌), and Pholiota adiposa (柳菌), with more than a dozen types categorized under “local products” or “native products.”

Among the edible fungi mentioned in the Ming and Qing texts, Jizong mushrooms (鸡枞) were the most renowned. Many scholars documented Jizong mushrooms extensively, praising them as a delicacy among fungi. The names for Jizong mushrooms varied. Descriptions of Jizong mushrooms (鸡枞) in historical texts included their place of origin, growth environment, harvesting precautions, and culinary techniques, indicating that Jizong mushrooms were already common during the Ming Dynasty. Local chronicles often detailed Jizong mushrooms under the “local products” section, specifying their growing season, appearance, and flavor. Their exceptional taste was a major reason for their frequent inclusion in historical records. Scholars’ notes also reveal that Jizong oil had become a highly valued cooking method. Over time, as culinary techniques evolved, dishes continued to improve even when local produce remained unchanged. Remarkably, the preparation of Jizong oil has been preserved to this day. The modern method involves frying Jizong mushrooms in rapeseed oil until they release their essence, which is then stored in jars for long-term preservation. It can be used as a topping, dipping sauce, or side dish to complement rice.

China is one of the earliest countries to discover and study edible fungi, with evidence of wild mushroom consumption dating back to the Yangshao Culture around 4000 BCE. Among the estimated 1.5 million fungal species worldwide, over 16,000 are found in China, with more than 1,000 being edible. Yunnan is rich in rare and precious mushroom varieties and has a long history of mushroom consumption. The frequent mention of wild mushrooms in Ming and Qing local chronicles and scholars' notes indicates that wild mushrooms had gradually transitioned from being solely local food ingredients to becoming commercialized and market-oriented. For ethnic minorities, the act of consuming mushrooms reflects a simple and primitive interaction with nature. As wild mushrooms became more widely recognized and valued, local people began to sell the harvested fungi or trade them for essentials like firewood, rice, oil, and salt, turning them into a source of livelihood.

The detailed records and repeated praises of Jizong mushrooms (鸡枞) by Ming and Qing scholars highlight that mushroom gathering and consumption were no longer merely for sustenance but had evolved into a refined cultural activity. In various poems and prose, scholars often referred to wild edible mushrooms as “mountain treasures” (山珍), “immortal delicacies” (仙珍), or “jade fungi” (琼芝), associating them with the mythical properties of immortality and longevity, thus shrouding wild mushrooms in an aura of mystery. Because wild mushrooms grow only in specific regions and seasons, they are extremely rare and valuable. The search for and consumption of these rare delicacies reflected the psychological and aesthetic desire of scholars and literati for uniqueness and exclusivity. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, wild mushrooms were also used as rare local tributes from Yunnan to the imperial court. In some areas under the jurisdiction of local chieftains (土司), entire families were “assigned” to mushroom gathering as part of their duties. As a prized tribute item, Jizong mushrooms (鸡枞) were often levied by local officials from the people. The court’s periodic collection of mushrooms exemplified the central government’s method of governance and integration in frontier regions.

The Current State of Yunnan's Mushroom Culture

Yunnan, known as the “Kingdom of Plants,” has abundant plant resources, making foraging an important livelihood for many of its local ethnic groups. These communities possess extensive knowledge of flora, fauna, and foraging techniques. Using the object of foraging to name a time period is not a new concept and has long been practiced—for instance, the Lisu people refer to a period as the “flower-picking month” (采花月). Similarly, the “mushroom season” (菌季) emerged as a natural term to describe the peak growth and harvesting period of wild mushrooms.

Yunnan’s climate varies greatly with its dramatic changes in topography. In many areas, there are no distinct four seasons at the same altitude. However, as the elevation increases, one can experience the changes of all “four seasons” within a small region—mountain tops remain cold and icy during winter and spring, while valleys are hot year-round, often divided only into “dry” and “rainy” seasons. This significant climatic diversity causes the timing of wild mushrooms emerging from the mountains to differ slightly across regions. In Yunnan’s low-latitude, low-altitude areas, such as parts of Wenshan and Honghe, wild mushrooms begin to emerge shortly after the Qingming Festival. In earlier years, due to poor transportation, these mushrooms were either consumed locally or discarded altogether. In recent years, with improved transportation, these early-season mushrooms have entered the market, becoming the first wild mushrooms available commercially. Meanwhile, starting from April and May, western and northwestern Yunnan begin their mushroom season as the warm, moist airflow from the southwest brings abundant humidity. This marks the harvesting period for “luxury” wild mushrooms such as Morchella (羊肚菌), Russula delica (大白菌), and cordyceps (虫草). Take Gongshan in the Nujiang River area as an example: every April, the first rainy season begins, causing the Nujiang River’s water levels to rise, an event commonly referred to as the “freshet” (桃花汛). The arrival of humidity prompts the early harvesting period for certain wild mushrooms. However, these mushrooms are mostly dried rather than consumed fresh. As a result, the process is relatively understated and rarely enters the public spotlight.

Ways to Explore Yunnan's Mushroom Culture
The documentary “The Fungal Kingdom” (《菌物王国》) is China’s first comprehensive film on fungi, featuring hundreds of mushroom species from the Baishanzu ecological zone. It explains their growth processes, habits, and roles in the ecosystem. Using fungi as the narrative focus, the film gradually unveils the mysteries of the fungal kingdom, portraying the continuous, diverse, and fascinating cycle of life within the nation’s ecological habitats.

Mushrooms: An Industry in Yunnan

Almost all globally renowned wild mushrooms can be found in Yunnan; those that are showcased are not only of excellent quality but also abundant in quantity. Currently, Yunnan boasts several hundred known species of wild edible mushrooms, nearing a thousand varieties. These account for approximately 80-90% of the total in China and nearly half of the edible varieties worldwide, an astonishing figure. Yunnan is uniquely qualified to add the title of “Kingdom” to the term “wild mushrooms.” Wild mushrooms entered the public eye explosively only after the 1980s, when the export scale of wild mushroom varieties expanded significantly. Rapid improvements in transportation, living standards, and information exchange not only facilitated the provincial circulation of Yunnan’s wild mushrooms but also bolstered domestic and international trade, making wild mushrooms a vital industry in Yunnan. Over the past two decades, the acquisition, classification, grading, processing, packaging, and transportation of Yunnan’s wild edible mushrooms have become well-established practices. In some areas, mushroom mountains have been leased to farmers specializing in mushrooms, which not only ensures the sustainable use and protection of resources but also facilitates the promotion of technologies like “artificial propagation,” significantly increasing the yields of certain wild mushrooms. In recent years, Yunnan’s annual wild mushroom harvest has averaged around 100,000 tons. Of this, only a small portion—less than 20,000 tons—circulates as fresh produce, which is relatively “visible” and could be considered the “public menu.” The rest enters processing chains, with most being turned into dried slices and some into frozen or brined products. These processed wild mushrooms, mainly porcini (牛肝菌), matsutake (松茸), truffles (松露), and chanterelles (鸡油菌), were initially exported in large quantities, with only a small portion sold domestically. Processed wild mushrooms are relatively “hidden,” akin to a “secret menu.”

Mushrooms: A Way of Life in Yunnan

From a young age, many Yunnan locals are introduced to wild mushrooms at the dining table. Certain mushrooms with great taste, rich nutrition, and high safety levels, such as Jizong (鸡㙡), often find their way into children’s diets early on. Even if there’s no mushroom meat, there will always be a spoonful of mushroom soup. During mushroom season, mushrooms become an essential dish in almost every household in Yunnan. For those who cook mushrooms themselves, cleaning and preparing them beforehand is crucial. Most mushrooms can be cleaned using a simple five-step method: scrape off the muddy stalk, trim the cap.

Traditional Yunnan cooking methods for mushrooms focus on “quick stir-frying over high heat.” Mushroom dishes primarily feature stir-frying, with stewing, cold mixing, or boiling as secondary methods. Even for stewing, mushrooms are usually stir-fried briefly beforehand to maintain their natural flavor. Seasonings are typically minimal—just a bit of green chili, garlic slices, oil, and salt, occasionally complemented by preserved meat or ham. Mushrooms are rarely used as a side ingredient. However, as the culinary culture of wild mushrooms evolved, methods such as grilling, stuffing, braising, steaming, and even serving them as sashimi have emerged. Garlic and mushrooms are considered inseparable companions, likely because garlic not only enhances the flavor but is also traditionally believed to test for and remove toxins. In some regions, there is a practice of mixing several types of mushrooms in one dish, but this carries higher risks and is typically attempted only by experienced individuals.

The widespread consumption of wild mushrooms in Yunnan has led to an interesting theory: an individual’s preference for a particular food often stems from their body’s needs and preferences. Over time, this becomes part of the body’s memory or subconscious. For Yunnan locals, the long history of eating mushrooms has embedded this habit into collective memory. During mushroom season, buying and eating mushrooms happens naturally, without conscious effort or reminders.