Young people increasingly find that tradition is their cup of tea
Theatre Tea's new store in Beijing offers a genuine experience. PHOTO/CHINA DAILY
In a burst of springtime flavor, new-style Chinese tea chain, Molly Tea, has attracted beverage enthusiasts with its latest creation, Yongchun Foshou. Made from the renowned oolong tea of the same name from Yongchun county, Quanzhou, Fujian province, this new offering has quickly become a hit. Yet, it is merely a highlight in a series of new brands that have taken the tea market by storm.
Data from the food delivery platform Eleme reveals a significant surge in demand: "Longjing (dragon-well green tea) milk tea" orders have quintupled since the start of April compared to March, while deliveries of milk teas crafted with bases of rock tea (a type of oolong) and biluochun (a type of green tea) have skyrocketed, recording increases of 100 times and 34 times respectively over the past year.
Young consumers are really getting into new Chinese-style (xinzhongshi) tea drinks and desserts. Even though young people have been enjoying milk tea and fruit tea, their interest in traditional Chinese tea keeps growing.
A recent report from the China Tea Marketing Association stated that as young people aged 18 to 30 gradually became the main drinkers of the beverage, such trends as guochao ("National tide" or "China chic"), wherein younger consumers prefer products made innovatively with Chinese elements, such as with aspects of intangible cultural heritage, are gaining traction. Modern Chinese teahouses have emerged as a fresh socializing spot for the youth, signaling an upgrade of the drink's consumption.
Wang Qing, president of the China Tea Marketing Association, says that as consumers favor more high-quality drinks, traditional premium teas are becoming the top choice, which is also boosting the consumption and innovation.
Last year, Theatre Tea, a modern chain with five stores in Beijing and Shanghai that was established in 2015, launched a new facility in the capital that differs from others with modern design ideas from inner decor to products — it combines retail and tea-drinking in a new Chinese style.
Sun Xuling, co-founder of Theatre Tea, shared that after years of market exploration, they felt it was time to offer consumers a more genuine tea experience.
"We've been experimenting with various modern interpretations of tea, from cocktails to desserts like cakes. Now, we highlight more of the essence of tea," she explains.
To enhance the tea culture experience, the new store showcases samples and explains the differences between various types.
"We also collaborated with a studio specializing in soil research at Beijing University of Civil Engineering and Architecture to create bricks that were mixed with tea powder or tea leaves with clay for the construction of our teahouse, mixing them without any additives or firing," Sun adds.
The store has three tea masters who engage with customers, brewing tea and sharing knowledge. "We've noticed a growing number of enthusiasts who even bring their own tea for our masters to brew," she says.
The new store also offers tea-making workshops, which are popular among young consumers. The latest course focused on making rose tea, pairing petals with black tea. Participants are guided through the process, with tea and snacks provided.
Snacks made of tea elements by chef Hao Jia and her team in a Beijing hotel. PHOTO/CHINA DAILY
Over 200 participants have taken part in this tea scenting course, which costs 89 yuan ($12) each. Wu Xuefeng, 44, attended a class on crafting osmanthus oolong tea last year. Guided by the instructor, she made the tea by herself and brought it home in a container.
"Usually, tea in teahouses is pre-prepared. Crafting a floral tea myself felt novel," Wu says.
The teacher simplified the process, making it easy to follow along. Wu says that she gained a clearer understanding of the tea's flavors through the process.
"The whole experience was relaxing and enjoyable. It helped ease my mood," she says.
Sun notices that with more sugar-free tea beverages introduced by tea brands in recent years, the taste of tea itself is gradually being embraced by young consumers. She hopes tea will become a part of everyone's daily life, with various ways to enjoy it, such as cold brewing in the summer.
In addition to the drink, Theatre Tea's tea-flavored cakes and desserts are also popular.
Chinese tea is increasingly becoming an inspiration for pastry chefs. Hao Jia, the executive sous-chef at China World Summit Wing, Beijing and her team recently introduced a spring-themed tea snack set.
One standout creation involves incorporating Longjing tea, picked before the Qingming Festival, fourth or fifth day of the fourth lunar month on the Chinese calendar, into traditional Italian panna cotta, enhancing it with a fresher, less sweet flavor.
The appearance of the dessert is inspired by the landscapes of Jiangnan (the region south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River), featuring layered colors of dark and light greens like a micro version of the mountains.
Hao, 39, keeps up with dining trends on social media platforms like Xiaohongshu, and she has noticed a rising interest in tea shops and unique tea-related offerings with more and more posts about these topics.
Starting last year, Hao and her team began infusing Chinese cuisine elements into their offerings.
"We've added tea flavors into our desserts, which makes them less sweet than typical Western desserts to cater to the local palate," Hao says.
This approach has resonated well with their clientele. "Our customers enjoy these new-style Chinese desserts, and many female customers recommend this afternoon tea set to their friends," she adds.