Hanfu
Chinese Hanfu or Han-style clothing in English, represents the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. It has a rich history and cultural significance, deeply rooted in the various aspects of Chinese civilization.
Brief History
Origin
Hanfu takes its name from the Han Dynasty (BC206-AD220), but its history dates back much earlier, to the reign of the Yellow Emperor, over 4,000 years ago.
Early Hanfu was simple and functional, made from materials like hemp and silk. It was gradually refined over time, incorporating more intricate designs and symbols.
Zhou Dynasty and Beyond
During the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC), Hanfu began to take on a more formalized appearance, with distinct styles emerging for men and women. The concept of wearing clothing as a reflection of social status became more prominent.
Han Dynasty and Popularization
The Han Dynasty (BC206-AD220) saw the widespread adoption and popularization of Hanfu. The empire's prosperity and cultural achievements contributed to the development of more elaborate and refined clothing styles.
Hanfu styles varied widely, reflecting the diversity of social classes and cultural influences. Men wore robes, jackets, and trousers, while women wore dresses, skirts, and tops.
Later Dynasties and Continuity
Throughout subsequent dynasties, Hanfu continued to evolve, incorporating new design elements and styles. Each dynasty left its mark on the development of Hanfu, with the Tang (618- AD 907), Song (960-1279), and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties being particularly influential.
Qing Dynasty and Disruption
During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), the rulers imposed their own dress code on the Han people, banning traditional Hanfu in favor of the Manchu-style clothing known as the "mandarin dress." This marked a significant disruption in the continuity of Hanfu's development.
Modern Revival
In recent decades, there has been a renewed interest in traditional Chinese culture, including Hanfu. Young people, in particular, have embraced Hanfu as a way of expressing their cultural identity and pride.
Hanfu has become a popular fashion trend, with modern designs and fabrics blending traditional elements with contemporary styles. Cultural events and festivals celebrate Hanfu, attracting thousands of enthusiasts.
Features and Characteristics
Wrapping Style
Hanfu is characterized by wrapping the right side of the garment over the left, known as "rightward cross collared" or "right lapel over left" (in Chinese, 交领右衽). This creates a unique silhouette that resembles the letter "y" when viewed from the front.
Diverse Styles and Types
Hanfu encompasses a wide range of styles and types, including both casual and formal wear. Casual Hanfu includes garments such as Shenyi (a long full-body garment) and Ruqun (a top garment with a separate lower skirt). Formal Hanfu may include Xuanduan (a dark robe used in sacrificial ceremonies) and Yuan-Lin Shan (a closed, round-collared robe for official or academic occasions).
Intricate Patterns and Designs
Hanfu often features intricate patterns and designs, reflecting the artistic and cultural heritage of China. Patterns can vary widely, from simple geometric shapes to intricate floral or dragon motifs. Materials such as brocade and yarn, along with traditional craftwork like embroidery, are also hallmarks of Hanfu attire.
Distinctive Styles
Popular styles come from different dynasties, especially the Ming, Song, and Tang dynasties. Hanfu's hallmark features include cross collars, right lapels, and wide, loose fits, offering comfort and elegance to the wearer.
Material and Craftsmanship
Early Hanfu fabrics were meticulously chosen, with silk and ramie (China grass) being the primary materials. They were often dyed with natural plant extracts and adorned with intricate patterns and embroidery, symbolizing auspiciousness and beauty.
Types and Varieties
Men's Attire: Examples include the straight-sleeved robe (Zhiduo), often worn by intellectuals and Taoist priests, and the short jacket and trousers worn by commoners.
Women's Attire: The ruqun (襦裙), a type of skirt worn over a short top, is a popular style. Variations include jiaolingruqun (交领襦裙) with a y-shaped collar and duijinruqun (对襟襦裙) with a straight-across collar. Based on the height of the waistband, ruqun can be classified as qiyaoruqun (齐腰襦裙) or qixiongruqun (齐胸襦裙).
Ceremonial Dress: Shenyi (深衣), both for men and women, is worn as a full dress for important ceremonies and holidays. It can be either quju (曲裾) with a curved hem or zhiju (直裾) with a straight hem.
Cultural Significance and Modern Relevance
Historical Continuity
The history of Hanfu spans nearly 4,000 years, with its basic form established in the Shang Dynasty (1600–1046 BC). Despite periods of suppression, particularly during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), Hanfu has remained an important part of Chinese cultural identity.
Cultural Significance
Hanfu is not merely clothing; it is a significant cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. For thousands of years, it has been worn by the Han ethnic group and has played an important role in traditional ceremonies and celebrations.
Cheongsam
The Chinese cheongsam, also commonly known as the qipao, is a traditional Chinese women's garment that has a rich history and cultural significance. It is characterized by its fitted silhouette, high collar, and distinctive side slits that allow for ease of movement. The cheongsam embodies the essence of Chinese aesthetics, combining elegance, sophistication, and a keen eye for detail.
Brief History
Early Origins
The history of cheongsam can be dated back to the Qing Dynasty(1644-1912). Many believe that the cheongsam originated from the robes worn by Manchu women, which were characterized by a wide body, straight lines, and extended down to the feet in a straight-tube shape.
Evolution During the Qing Dynasty
Manchu Garments: During the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women wore robes known as "qipao" (旗袍 in Chinese), which were part of the Manchu costume system along with the qitou (旗头, Manchu hairstyle) and qixie (旗鞋, Manchu shoes).
Style Features: These robes were typically wide and straight, with elaborate decorations such as embroidered borders on the sleeves, collars, and hems.
Transition to Modern Form
In the 1920s, under the influence of Western fashion and ideas of women's liberation, the cheongsam underwent significant changes. It became more fitted, with a narrower waist and shorter hemline, revealing more of the female figure.
In the 1920s, the "cheongsam vest" emerged as a precursor to the modern cheongsam. This style combined elements of the traditional Manchu robe with Western tailoring, leading to the development of the modern form.
Popularization and Golden Age
The 1930s and 1940s marked the golden age of the cheongsam. It became the most popular and iconic female garment in China, with numerous variations in length, sleeves, and decorations.
Revival
In the 1980s, the cheongsam experienced a revival, thanks to the renewed appreciation of traditional culture and the influence of fashion, film, and television. It once again became a popular choice for formal occasions and special events.
Features
Distinctive Cut and Shape
Right-side Opening: The Cheongsam typically opens on the right side with a large lapel (dajin) and buttons running down the front. This design emphasizes the vertical line of the body, elongating the silhouette.
High Collar and Closed Neckline: The collar is high and closed, often in a stand-up or mandarin style, adding a sense of elegance and formality.
Side Slits: The dress features side slits, usually from the hips up, allowing for ease of movement while maintaining a graceful appearance.
Versatile Length and Materials
Cheongsam come in different lengths, ranging from knee-length to floor-length, suitable for both casual and formal occasions. They can be made from a wide range of materials, including silk, cotton, satin, and even modern synthetic fabrics. The choice of material affects the overall feel and drape of the dress.
Elaborate Details and Embellishments
Ancient Cheongsam were often adorned with intricate embroidery, beadwork, or lace trim, reflecting the wearer's status and taste. Modern versions may incorporate simpler or more subtle decorations. The buttons are typically sewn onto the dress, often in decorative patterns or colors that complement the overall design.
Cultural Significance
The Cheongsam is a symbol of Chinese culture and femininity. It represents the beauty of traditional Chinese craftsmanship and the evolving tastes and fashions of Chinese women over time.
